How to Curl Hair
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If you want to transform your limp hair into wild, carefree curls, you're going to have to alter your hair's natural chemistry. Curls are made by two kinds of chemical bonds that cause the hair to bend: disulfide and hydrogen bonds. You're either born with plentiful disulfide bonds (i.e. naturally curly hair) or you're not, and the only way to change that is with expensive chemical treatment (a perm). Fortunately, you can "mold" the hydrogen bonds, convincing your hair to act curly for a day or two. That's all that curling hair really is. Here's how to make it happen.
Steps
- Wet your hair. It doesn't have to be dripping wet, because this will make it take longer to dry. It just needs to be damp enough for water to come in contact with every strand. This initial wetting serves to break the hydrogen bonds in your hair so that you can "reset" them in following steps. Applying mousse or a light gel help your curls keep their shape because it will stiffen, although putting too much can make your hair feel hard or sticky.
- The only time you shouldn't wet your hair is if you're going to be using a curling iron or hot rollers, which will apply heat directly to the hair; the resulting hot water can burn your hair. If you use mousse or gel with these methods, let them dry completely first.
- Straight hair has hydrogen bonds linking the proteins that make up the strand. Since straight hair doesn't have enough disulfide bonds to make the hair "bend" (i.e. curl) the hydrogen bonds form close together along a straight strand.
- Curly hair has strong disulfide bonds because of the natural structure of the hair proteins, which a person with curly hair is born with. Even though hydrogen bonds aren't as strong, you can "train" them to act like disulfide bonds, at least temporarily.
- The only time you shouldn't wet your hair is if you're going to be using a curling iron or hot rollers, which will apply heat directly to the hair; the resulting hot water can burn your hair. If you use mousse or gel with these methods, let them dry completely first.
- Shape your hair into curls. There are various ways to do this, depending on the type of curl you're going for, how easily your hair curls, and the amount of effort you're willing to put in. Click on the following links for more information on various methods:
- Foam Rollers - Gentle on the hair, more comfortable to sleep with them on; time consuming and somewhat difficult to do without the help of a friend (unless hair is short); using different sizes of rollers adds more flexibility in desired style
- Braids - Easy to do, just need bands to tie braids; comfortable to sleep in; makes curls that are more zig-zag in shape.
- Curling Iron - Good for making perfect spiral curls; can be time consuming and especially damaging for hair.
- Rollers - Time consuming and somewhat difficult to do without the help of a friend (unless hair is short); using different sizes of rollers adds more flexibility in desired style.
- Hot rollers (which are applied to dry hair) create more of a soft, romantic looks but the curls don't last as long.[1]
- Hot rollers (which are applied to dry hair) create more of a soft, romantic looks but the curls don't last as long.[1]
- Bobby Pins - "Pin curls" were popular in the 1940s, especially on shorter hair, for making well-defined, skinny curls worn tight to the head.
- Straighteners - Even though straighteners (flat irons) are designed to be used to straighten hair, they can also be adapted for creating soft curls, usually curlier at the ends.
- Hair Sticks - Instead of wrapping a strand of hair around a roller, you wrap it around a stick, resulting in tighter curls.
- Fabric/Rags - More comfortable than rollers; produce effects similar to pins, but fabric is easier to work with and sleep on.
- Knots - If you don't have anything to curl your hair with at all, tying it into knots can create curls if done properly.
- Foam Rollers - Gentle on the hair, more comfortable to sleep with them on; time consuming and somewhat difficult to do without the help of a friend (unless hair is short); using different sizes of rollers adds more flexibility in desired style
- Apply heat. The heat helps to break any remaining hydrogen bonds. This step is optional. If you curl your hair often, the repetitive application of heat can eventually damage your hair. Hair can be curled without heat, but you'll have to let the hair set for a longer period of time and the curls might not last as long.
- You can apply heat with a hair dryer, but don't let the air blow individual strands (particularly shorter ends) out of the curl; place a barrier (such as a bandanna) over your hair when you blow dry.
- If you're using a curling iron or hot rollers, you're combining this with the previous step because you're curling and heating at the same time. Keep in mind, however, that even though a curling iron can produce beautiful curls, it's more damaging to your hair than any other method because the higher heat destabilizes the proteins that your hair is made of.[2]
- You can apply heat with a hair dryer, but don't let the air blow individual strands (particularly shorter ends) out of the curl; place a barrier (such as a bandanna) over your hair when you blow dry.
- Let the curls set. The new hydrogen bonds that will keep your hair curly only for as your hair dries and cools. If you pull your hair out of the curled shape before it's completely dry and cool then the weight of your hair will break some of the hydrogen bonds and it will not curl as well. If you're using a curling iron, hold the strand in a curled shape until it completely cools. Spritz hairspray to essentially "glue" the hydrogen bonds in place. If you're going for a casual look, you may want to scrunch your hair.
- Waterproof your hair. If it's at all humid or rainy where you are (or where you're going) apply a pomade or oil to prevent moisture from penetrating your hair strands. Remember how wetting your hair breaks hydrogen bonds? Now that hydrogen bonds are keeping your hair curly, you don't want moisture in the form of humidity or rain to come in contact with your strands of hair because they'll reset your hydrogen bonds and your curls will be gone like the wind.
Video
Tips
- It is very difficult to curl long hair because it takes a long time to put into the curled shape and to dry. The shorter, the easier.
- Have someone help you curl your hair. It can be hard to see in the back.
- If you want curled hair in a ponytail, put in the ponytail first. Then curl from there. It is very hard to pull curled hair into a ponytail if it isn't already.
Warnings
- The tighter the curls, the more you need to avoid brushing them or you'll create a frizzy mess.
Related wikiHows
- How to Get Spiral Curls
- How to Keep Curls in Your Hair
- How to Scrunch Hair
- How to Make Straight Hair Into Afro Hair
- How to Follow the Curly Girl Method for Curly Hair
Sources and Citations
- Research source: http://www.ccmr.cornell.edu/education/ask/index.html?quid=708
- Research source: http://educ.queensu.ca/~science/main/concept/chem/c07/c07tpcb1.htm
- ↑ http://www.hairfinder.com/info/buildingcurl2.html
- ↑ http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m1200/is_8_160/ai_78545498/pg_2
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